Thursday July 18: Baie Fine - What A Night!!!

Baie Fine is a 7 mile long, relatively narrow channel between two of the mountain ranges of the La Cloche mountains – very much like a fjord. 

Crazy great scenery again – and even better views of the white mountains.

The white cliffs (these are really quite high but it's hard to really get a perspective) line almost the entire north side of the bay with moderate tree growth so the quartz rock is still so very visible.

After taking a ride to the end (through an even narrower channel), we turned around to look for a spot to anchor for the night. It was predicted to be higher than usual winds in the morning so we wanted to find a nice protected spot.

Ah – the perfect spot! A nice little hook of rock behind which we could hide – if it wasn't too shallow or too rocky. Turned out to be a perfect place :-)

Quite shallow (3 feet but a sand bottom) so Steve towed us over and planted the anchor in the rocks. A back anchor on the shoreline behind us and we were set for the winds that were coming from the SW in the morning. What a great place!

Until the thunderstorms came just after dusk….. We watched the AMAZING lightening show to the north of us and I had just crawled into bed when Steve said – it's coming OUR WAY. I don't know how high the wind gusts were but it was crazy windy with pelting rain and lightening. As we were watching, it suddenly seemed we were no longer in the same spot – near our nicely protective rock! The front anchor had pulled out of the rock …. so hard to see when the flash from lightening was the only way to tell what was going on and the rain was coming down so hard .....

The wind lasted only 15 minutes but by the time it finished we were sitting in the sand (let's hear it for the sand bottom!!) with the aft end of the boat about five feet from shore. We had the engine up so it was actually the very bottom of the boat that was sitting in the sand. My biggest fear: a tree would fall on the boat – how ironic that would be :-)

After a time we finally decided we weren't moving and indeed the boat was sitting on the bottom so there was nothing to be done until it was light and the winds and rain let up so we went to sleep. Fortunately the back anchor held so we didn't just skip down the shoreline!. Of course then I'm wondering half the night if we'll be able to get the boat OFF of the shore!

Morning and no problem :-) Steve, as usual, did all of the leg work of getting the boat out of the sand, taking the forward anchor back to where we really wanted it and also re-securing the aft anchor as well. Today (Friday) it's more of the same weather so we now sit very safe and super tied in to our great little spot on Baie Fine!`

Wednesday July 17: Blueberry Island

Killarney was a nice stay but one night was enough. Wednesday morning as we were fueling up, someone was calling “Guppy” - it was a couple we had met in June at the big chute railway on the Trent - a tug by the name of Elan. Their dinghy engine had died and they were stuck in Killarney – with their trawler out at one of the popular anchorages about 5 miles away! Could we tow their dinghy over there? Sure – we wanted to check out that anchorage anyway.

It was a nice place (they encouraged us to stay) but we had already decided that we were headed about 20 miles away to Frazier Bay. There must have already been 20 boats anchored at the place they were – way, way too many boats around for our taste :-)

The La Cloche mountains that line the waterway here are so unique in their white color. For more info on these mountains, click here. The rock is actually quartzite so the ride to our anchorage was really nice – especially with the sun out and shining on the rocks.

we found out the large home on the island near our anchorage belongs to the Lindt chocolate family – nice place …. but no sign of anyone around. 

Blueberry island is a great place to anchor and protection is provided from all sides and the view looking forward is very peaceful.

The water was a crazy 82 degrees so even I was in and lazing in the shade on my float :-) I do have high water temperature standards and the 60's and mid-70's we've seen elsewhere just didn't make the grade!

The night was very quiet and after a really nice kayak ride around our anchorage and the one just down the bay (just barely enough water for us in our kayaks to squeeze through the cut behind Blueberry Island), we pulled up anchor and headed out for our next destination: Baie Fine (pronounced “ bay fin”).

The weather was supposed to be going downhill on Friday so we thought we would find a good anchorage in Baie Fine and plan on spending a couple of days sitting out the weather (rain, thunderstorms)!

Tuesday July 16: Killarney, Ontario

After enjoying a second day at Thomas bay we made the short 5 mile trip to Killarney. Our first visit was in 2010 on the trawler so it was enjoyable to see it again. It's like we were now really in the north channel! 

Basically there are 3 things to do in Killarney: go to the small museum, bike to the lighthouse and eat deep fried battered fish at the red bus fish stand that has been here forever.

This time around we skipped the deep fried fish and the small museum but did take the time to ride to the lighthouse. It was very hot – we forgot the water for the bike ride. Sad :-)

But the rocks and water around the lighthouse are very fun. It's surprising how many people were out on the rocks just enjoying the sun and waves.

Another great sunset. I thought the church steeple was pretty neat.

Pink at night sailor's delight, right? Looks like it'll be a nice day tomorrow!

Monday July 15: Thomas Bay - North Side of Georgian Bay

 Tobermory was interesting but very, very busy with folks in to enjoy what the Bruce Peninsula has to offer: diving, hiking, site-seeing in general. So it was time for us to go: first of course was breakfast out. Right at the end of our dock!! How could you beat that :-)

But then when I ordered eggs poached, the response (nicely said) was “we just do the basics – we can't do poached eggs” - well, ok then!

So it was a good thing that we went for the Beaver tails the day before. My intent was to take the Beaver Tail back to the boat to take a picture, right? Well, that just didn't work because we HAD to eat it while it was still warm, right?

REALLY good. We went for the chocolate banana – awesome …....

Yesterday as we walked around before we left, Steve put us in danger as he displayed total disregard for the plastic rope indicated no one should go through this area. Matt, where were you??

But I have to say I didn't feel to be in any danger and after all it WAS a shortcut to the ferry dock. It was a really fun ferry too – the nose of it lifts up so the cars can drive in. We were fortunate to see it as we were leaving the harbor.

There is a protected area here called Five Fathoms Marine Park which covers half a dozen islands in the Tobermory area. The most famous is Flower Pot Island – so named because of the rock formations which stand on the south side of the islands. Rumor has it there were originally 3 but now there are only 2 left. This one is by far the most impressive!

The day yesterday could not have been any nicer for the 55 mile trip across the northern tip of Georgian Bay. It was sometime hard to distinguish between the water and the sky.

By the time we reached the other side the rocky shoreline more familiar to us reappeared. How two different sides of a bay could be so different is amazing to me.

We ended up anchored in a place called Thomas Bay. Very well protected but a very interesting ride out of the channel and into this place. We shared the anchorage with 3 sailboats – one of whom had an anchor with 80 feet of chain out. In a 6 foot anchorage. Really? His swing circle was half of the bay – we decided to stay well of of his way …

and ended up just tying two lines to shore: one aft and one forward. For all of that work, it only made sense to stay here an extra day :-)

Plus it was such a great place to stay! Lots of places to kayak among the rocky areas that surrounded this bay.

Steve finally decided to try using WD-40 on the dashboard (a suggestion from Cheryl: “work on anything” - reminded me of the Windex in My Big Fat Greek Wedding). What a transformation! It looks like new! He'll put a few more coats on as the oil soaks in and replenished what the sun has baked out over the years. Amazing thing …..

Next stop is Killarney. We were there three years ago when we first retired and were traveling on the Loop.

Saturday July 13: Tobermory

 Our destination when we left Lion's Head on Friday was Wingfield Basin. The point is just barely visible in the picture right and the anchorage is just around this corner.

It was about 20 miles from Lion's Head so a pretty short travel day again with light winds from the east. Nice travel day.

Georgian Bay on this side is really deep - today we passed over the deepest spot: over 500 feet! Nothing like shallow Lake Erie for sure.


The water is quite deep right up until you are pretty close to shore. I still kept a respectful distance anyway .....

The cliffs of the Niagara Escarpment continue to line the shore. It's really truly amazing.

I don't think we have ever had so many pictures of rocks since Steve and the kids went to Monument Valley in the early 80's! But every turn just brings something so seemingly different than the one before.

Our anchorage at Wingfield Basin was as nice as we expected. By the end of the evening, there were 5 sailboats and another cruiser in the basin with us.

The afternoon was spend kayaking and just lazing around :-) No work today!

Evening and sunset brought out the colors on cliffs nearby and the stars were really amazing. Still not up to the standard of the night on Lake Powell when we were with my brother Tom and my Mom in 1998 but nonetheless it was quite the show and included the Milky Way.

Steve spotted a beaver hut in the bay when he was kayaking - confirmed by the presence of the beaver the next morning swimming near the boat! Fun to see.

This morning we were up early and read to move on. It was another 20 miles to Tobermory - and another crazy cliff day along the shoreline.

I think we actually traveled 30 miles just because we followed the shoreline instead of just taking the straight route to Tobermory! We just couldn't stop taking pictures :-)

Finally! We arrived in Tobermory - Guppy is circled in red in the picture at left. We are right 'downtown' in an area that draws folks looking for dive trips, glass bottom boat rides or go-fast rides to Flower Pot Island (which we will cruise by when we leave and head for the North Channel).

Rather like Put-In-Bay on Lake Erie on a busy weekend!

A good stop: filled up with fuel, emptied the holding tank, filled the water tank, did laundry and still there was time to visit the Visitor Center at the Provincial Park! It had a movie .... I was totally in :-)

The movie wasn't the best but it gave a nice overview of the park. Steve and I were both thinking it might have more about the geography of the region but still it was worth while - and they had senior rates :-)

There were several beavers that were just made for posing with so we took advantage of that! I thought the cooking beaver was especially appropriate for Steve!

And the last stop was at the observation platform which was near the Visitor Center. It was pretty good - not quite high enough to really give a good view of the surrounding area but not too bad.

The island near Tobermory were pretty visible and if it had been too much higher I wouldn't have climbed up it :-)

Tomorrow? Looks like we'll head northwest toward the North Channel or at least the northern end of Georgian Bay. Weather is supposed to be quite nice for the 60 mile trip.

Friday July 12: Finally Leaving Lion's Head!

The plan was to move on yesterday but the winds of Georgian Bay decided otherwise! It would have been ok to go but we are in no rush so we waited until today to leave. Might as well have a really enjoyable trip to Wingfield Basin - our next stop.

Which meant there was time to put a final coat of finish on the teak. Pictures at a later date - it looks SO much better!

Steve decided to go hiking again and encouraged me to come. After having been on the hike he thought I might be able to ride my bike part of the way. Ok, I was game!

The worst, he assured me, was the first hill. Probably true so phase 1: pushing up one hill is no problem.

On we went.

Next was phase 2: riding along a dirt path that was wide and mostly smooth. No problem here either!

Phase 3: ride on a narrow path with rocks, roots and miscellaneous objects that needed to be avoided by walking the bikes for a while.

All the time we were going mostly uphill. Ok by me. I looked forward to the the trip back!

Of course we finally reached the point where we could bike no farther. Too many roots, rocks and impassible places.

Steve locked our now mountain bikes to the nearest tree and off we continued.

Phase 4: the path became a combination of walking and climbing - onward we strove toward our destination: a cliff above the water.

Finally! I made it :-)

Ever carefully I sort of crawled along the rock until I sort of was near the edge. Can't go any closer. Natural selection will get you when you least expect it - it just takes one little slip on a rock or a trip on your own shoelaces ......

I'm not sure where this fear of high places came from but thinking back can trace it to standing on the highest floor of the Luxor Casino in Las Vegas - you know - the one that is shaped like a pyramid. So when you looked down you couldn't see what, if anything, was holding you up.

As for the fear of things falling on me, I think that came from being on Lake Powell and looking up at the towering cavern walls and noticing that clearly large chunks of rock had broken away. Strange. Anyway I was really glad Steve encouraged me to make the trip. Definitely was doable :-)

On the way back we passed by the back of the harbor. What a really great place this is!

Today: winds out of the east at 5 km which is 3 mph. Can't do much better than that so the 20 miles to the anchorage will be very pleasant.

Wednesday July 10: 42nd Anniversary :-)

Once again we celebrate our wedding anniversary on the water! We are so fortunate ......

For more kayaking pictures as well as pictures of Steve's hike yesterday, click here. It was an awesome view from the top of the cliffs!!